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Post by bazza44 on Jun 10, 2023 13:06:26 GMT 10
The other problem we had was a strange battery problem. All week all good until Friday morning. Our setup -- 480 watts of solar on roof of van --2 x 120 amp/hr Fullriver AGM batteries bought on 18-4-18 -- compressor fridge -- diesel heater--Tv-- lights -- pump. Prostar solar regulator and Victron battery monitor. Until Fri. morning the voltage first up was 12.2v and after turning off diesel heater it started to go up 12.3, then sun putting in maybe 1or 2 amps and increasing until fully charged. Friday morning 12.2 as had been, turned off heater and then 12.3. Within 5 or 10 minutes down to 11.9. Jumped off seat as all power went off and went to front boot to look at Prostar. It showed low voltage disconnect and I pressed the self test button and checked one battery voltage with multimeter 12.5v, at the same time as I pressed the self test button my wife came out and said power back on. The test said ok. Went inside and looked at Victron monitor and it said 11.9v but showed 87% charged . Why would this be, makes no sense to me. Decided there was something wrong with either the Prostar or a battery issue even though these are not old batteries and not cheap. Should last for years. This morning I have disconnected batteries and am charging them separately. One went to absorption within 10 minutes, the other is still on bulk after a few hours so I guess this is the problem. I will keep charging and see what happens, then leave batteries sit overnight and see what voltage they show tomorrow. Barry
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Post by jr on Jun 10, 2023 15:25:31 GMT 10
Hi Barry, Sounds like you are on top of the problem. Even though your batteries are a good brand I would expect at least three year’s minimum and at five years it could be at the end of there life. I know that some people can get 9 or 10 yrs out of a battery but five years is not bad and as you have a compressor fridge that can give the battery’s a workout.
JR
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Post by bazza44 on Jun 11, 2023 16:21:12 GMT 10
Well today was test day. Charged batteries and put load of two headlight bulbs on each. About 10amps for one and a quarter hours for one. Checked with multimeter 10.9v with load on. disconnect load and up to 12.5v
Other battery about same time on load showed 12.1 then 12.4 without load.
Trying to find new batteries 120Ah to fit battery box 330 x 175 x 220ht. Not too many at that size now, about 400 long seems to be the new dimension.
I am trying to find a battery no more than $400 ea. I am looking at AMP-TECH by Supercharge. I have been using their cranking batteries in the cars for many years with good results. Eg. six years in the Rav4 and still going.
Any recommendations anyone ??
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Post by legendts on Jun 11, 2023 19:54:56 GMT 10
You could try this place Barry. maroondahbatt.com.au/ I replaced my vehicle batteries through them and spoke with the guy there who was extremely helpful. Delivery was quick and I thought reasonable. Also bought Giant Power brand 140AH batteries through Aussie Batteries and Solar for the van. www.aussiebatteries.com.au/
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jclures
Seasoned veteran
Posts: 333
Location: Herberton, North Qld
1st name: John
Tow/Motorhome: Nisota
Caravan: Robustus355
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Post by jclures on Jun 11, 2023 22:03:38 GMT 10
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Post by bazza44 on Jun 12, 2023 8:15:17 GMT 10
Thanks Jeff, I have been looking at the Giant 140 Ah but they seemed too good to be true. Good to know you have them and like them. I will look again.
John I am sticking with AGM at the moment, just drop in and do not need anything changed.
Barry
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gerrym
Seasoned veteran
Posts: 404
Location: Brisbane
Tow/Motorhome: MUX
Caravan: Billabong Grove 16 ft
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Post by gerrym on Jun 12, 2023 8:56:45 GMT 10
Hi Barry, I replaced my lead acid batteries with 2 of these; Batteries
Now each one is around what you wanted as a total spend, but, they are Drop-In and within your dimensions.
I just used my old battery management system, as apparently each battery has its own BMS
"No changing of systems, equipment, or extensive re-wiring is required in most cases. You simply pull your old heavy AGM batteries out and put the new lightweight iTECH120X in. The iTECH120X is the only true drop-in upgrade for your existing batteries."
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Post by bazza44 on Jun 13, 2023 16:13:38 GMT 10
Gerry if I was a few years younger I would look at lithium, but I can only see maybe another couple of years left for us using the van so I opted for something I know. I bought Ritar batteries.
Barry
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gerrym
Seasoned veteran
Posts: 404
Location: Brisbane
Tow/Motorhome: MUX
Caravan: Billabong Grove 16 ft
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Post by gerrym on Jul 5, 2023 17:14:09 GMT 10
Rather than start a new thread, I thought I might put this here, as it is regarding Batteries (Starting Type)
So have discussed how modern vehicles stop running at the lights, and this is touched on.
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Post by loub on Jul 5, 2023 20:12:40 GMT 10
Yes that's a good article.The little Lady has. A mazda3 which has all sorts of electronic gizmo's. She doesn't lock the car in the garage.I have to lock it much to her frustration because of the key search when having key less start.Have had to ring road service because of flat batteries before and the service man all ways states the same about locking but also to put it on the charger in the garage once a month to keep it topped up as Mazda 3 has a habit of slowly decreasing the amount of charge they hold in the battery.
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Post by GerryP on Jul 5, 2023 21:20:48 GMT 10
It's interesting as my Ranger, when locked, has movement sensors energised in the cab. While I can disable that, I'd have to do it every time I lock the car, so in the shed I generally don't bother.
However, whether I lock it or not, the battery still drains over a week or so to a point where it either just starts, or it doesn't. Mind you, it's a common Ranger issue, especially if you don't disable the smart alternator. Just too many electronic gadgets which never sleep.
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Post by loub on Jul 5, 2023 22:12:15 GMT 10
Yes Gerry P same with my bt 50.The Racq man tells me to periodically WAC it on the charger to top it up.Not as bad as the Mazda 3 but still.The Racq chap also though the Ranger in with the bt.
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Post by Frank and Brenda on Jul 6, 2023 8:46:29 GMT 10
Whilst on the subject of draining batteries My son has a 2012 F. F. F. F. ranger (I haven't forgotten him for defecting to the dark side lol) The previous owner had put in a battery in the tub with a lot of associated stuff like compressor, lights, switches, dcdc charger, all built in to a box compartment Anyway ever time Adam ran the fridge overnight, the car would need jump starting in the morning, but the 2nd battery showed 12.4v I checked out the wiring for the smart charger and it came straight from the battery, nothing to stop it from draining I put in a continuous duty solenoid energised from the ignition to isolate the starting battery (that's what i have on my car) Next time the fridge was used, it needed jump starting again Adam noticed though that the green/ red window on the battery was still green indicating that the battery was ok I haven't had time to look at it further but does anyone have an idea what could be causing it to need a boost to start
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Post by bazza44 on Jul 6, 2023 15:09:41 GMT 10
Frank probably a load test would be advisable just to make sure the green light is telling the truth.
Barry
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gerrym
Seasoned veteran
Posts: 404
Location: Brisbane
Tow/Motorhome: MUX
Caravan: Billabong Grove 16 ft
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Post by gerrym on Jul 6, 2023 17:22:11 GMT 10
Many years ago when I didn't understand auto electrics enough to be dangerous, one daughter had a second hand 1984 Ford Laser.
It basically only got driven to work on a Thursday evening for work.
She got good at clutch starting it, but would start no problem, for the trip home.
I decided that the battery must not be too good, so got a new battery.
Upon connecting the new battery lead I heard a click (before I needed hearing aids)
Disconnected the lead and reconnected and again heard a click.
I located a relay that wasn't controlling anything, but was drawing power.
Possibly a previous owner had spot lights or something connected in the past.
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