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Post by inca on Aug 7, 2019 9:16:28 GMT 10
I had one shackle pin that I could not get grease into so prior to leaving for our annual trip to FNQ earlier in the year I decided to rectify the problem. As I didn't have any wheels removed the job was quite easy and after removing the locknut from the offending it was easily driven out. Following cleaning, inspection showed that the pin was completely blocked with a composition of old grease, dirt and rust. Some wear was evident on one side of the pin but not sufficient to present a problem. I used a drill shank to remove the solid muck in the grease tract and after another good clean it was ready for installation. Just before refitting I ran the a file across the grease exit hole to enlarge the flat and hopefully make the grease easier to pump through. The pin was driven in 180 deg around from the original position then tightened with the nylock nut. In hindsight I should have done the job a year or so ago when the grease began difficult to pump through. Hindsight is a wonderful thing. But all good now.
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Lance
Avid poster
Posts: 233
Location: Melbourne
Tow/Motorhome: VW Crafter Motorhome
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Post by Lance on Aug 7, 2019 9:27:58 GMT 10
A reasonably simple solution to a very common issue. Did ya replace the grease nipple as well, they can get clagged up with gunk after a few trips.
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Post by inca on Aug 7, 2019 10:56:45 GMT 10
A squirt of grease thru the nipple before fitting cleared it all out Lance.
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Post by Muzz On Line on Aug 7, 2019 19:21:50 GMT 10
So when you grease the (rock and roller) suspension, what is the general rule..
Use a jack to take the weight off the suspension and then pump grease in until clean new grease is squeezed out?
Also does the spring set stay aligned well enough when you jack the caravan and remove the bolt? How do you know how high to jack to allow you to get it out and back in easily?
As you can tell, I have not had to do it on a van before, just box trailers that are easily manipulated.
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cupie
Been here for a while
Posts: 58
Location: S E Queensland
1st name: Graham
Tow/Motorhome: 1996 4.2 EFI GQ Patrol
Caravan: 1998 Jayco Westport
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Post by cupie on Aug 7, 2019 19:30:26 GMT 10
Recently, after >200,000 km and 20 years on my long suffering Jayco, I decided to have a suspension expert look at my shackles.
Of the 14 shackles, he found that only 6 needed replacing. All of these were the greaseable type.
The ones that just had the 'rubbers' were still good and didn't require replacing. Perhaps if I had pulled out & cleaned the pins regularly, I might have avoided the need to replace them.
But I was happy with the outcome, with it costing only half of the estimated amount.
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Post by Old Techo on Aug 7, 2019 20:13:35 GMT 10
So when you grease the (rock and roller) suspension, what is the general rule.. Use a jack to take the weight off the suspension and then pump grease in until clean new grease is squeezed out? Yes Also does the spring set stay aligned well enough when you jack the caravan and remove the bolt? How do you know how high to jack to allow you to get it out and back in easily? I jack the van until the tyres are clear of the floor and put stands under the van chassis. Then I use a small jack under the axle or part of the spring to take the weight off the spring eye pin and do so by feel of the pin tightness by rotating it with a spanner and tweaking the jack height until the pin feels reasonably loose.
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Post by Muzz On Line on Aug 7, 2019 23:41:16 GMT 10
Thanks OT
I thought the first part was correct but did not know about the second part.
Does the spring set ever change enough in length between the eyes to always be under stress when in the fitted position?
I sort of envisage (if too long) trying a ratchet strap between the eyes to get them to the correct distance apart to fit the second pin, or (if too short) jamming a thin block of wood between the eye and the chassis and letting the weight of the van down until the eye length aligned. Which could be a bit tricky if you were not prepared.
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Post by Old Techo on Aug 8, 2019 7:37:05 GMT 10
Does the spring set ever change enough in length between the eyes to always be under stress when in the fitted position? I sort of envisage (if too long) trying a ratchet strap between the eyes to get them to the correct distance apart to fit the second pin, or (if too short) jamming a thin block of wood between the eye and the chassis and letting the weight of the van down until the eye length aligned. Which could be a bit tricky if you were not prepared. Muzz,
As leaf springs by their very nature change length as load varies then all attachment methods must allow for this.
One end of the spring is attached via an eye to a fixed chassis position so the other end must be allowed to move. This can be achieved by having the second eye attached to the chassis via a shackle that swings back and forth.
Another method is a flat moving end that slides back and forth and your method is more sophisticated with a loop in the spring that can move freely on a roller.
So no matter which method is employed the fixed eye end should always be able to be readily positioned to remove/fit the bush pin without the need to change the shape of the leaf spring.
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Post by inca on Aug 8, 2019 10:36:09 GMT 10
When I did my pins,I placed the jack under the axle behind the backing plate just enough to support only. The eye moved minimally when the pin was driven out and an almost straight path when driven in.
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Post by Muzz On Line on Aug 8, 2019 12:59:29 GMT 10
Thanks guys,
Great info for when I do my maintenance as I have never had to remove a greased pin on this van. Might be time to check that they are not getting bound up as the grease does not always come out both sides of the pin.
The box trailers I have had all had an eye one end and the other a slide. Very simple set up and easy for maintenance.
Cheers
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