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Post by inca on Nov 17, 2021 8:30:12 GMT 10
Nice job OT. The brushless produces 180 Nm torque more than enough for the van and 4x4. The equivalent Makita I have has only 170NM and only a repair warranty.
I will be interested to see the usage results when tested with your tension wrench.
Frank, the conventional Ozito impact driver ( "PXC model ) in comparison produces 150 Nm for the skin only and is an excellent price if you have the 18v Li battery. Check them out on the Bunnings Website.
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Post by Old Techo on Nov 17, 2021 8:46:49 GMT 10
Ian,
The Ozito claim is 215Nm.
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Post by A'van on Nov 17, 2021 10:07:23 GMT 10
Thanks OT. Another way too say this i think, we got a top loader auto washing machine as a lot off people have. The first one we had, had a gearbox which gave us a lot off trouble so we got rid of that one. The one we got now only has a motor which goes forward and backwards, slow and fast so i think it must be a brushless motor. Am i right?
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Post by GerryP on Nov 17, 2021 10:10:02 GMT 10
My wheel nuts only need 130 Nm so I'd need to be careful not to over tighten them using a rattle gun.
I just crack the nuts with a wheel brace to loosen them, then use a 1/2" adapter and socket in my Ryobi impact driver. I use the same to replace the nuts then use a torque wrench to tighten. The impact driver never quite gets to 130 Nm which is fine by me.
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Post by A'van on Nov 17, 2021 10:13:46 GMT 10
An electric jack is that what they use on racing cars? Or how do they work?
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Post by Old Techo on Nov 17, 2021 10:54:43 GMT 10
Hans,
Washing machine motors are all AC as far as I know and I’m not aware of any brushless AC motors anywhere.
Washing machine agitators that rock back and forth are most likely gearbox controlled whilst the electric motor runs in only one direction but probably at varying speeds.
One brand that does control both motor speed and direction is Fisher and Paykel. The reason is a special motor, perhaps more akin to a stepper motor, and it is controlled electronically. It has many poles and permanent magnets. Very easy to control speed and direction and no gearbox is used at all.
Re electric jacks, in F1 they jack by hand. In Aussie V8 Supercars they jack with inbuilt air jacks operated by an air hose in the pits.
Gerry,
The primary reason I use a rattle-gun is to crack the nuts so I don’t strain my back. Crack them and whiz them off.
To put them back on I start a couple of threads by hand then use the gun to whiz up to very lightly firm. Once I’ve completed the star pattern of tightening I give them all another go to firm. When done I do the final tighten manually with an X-brace.
The Ozito rattle-gun is fully variable speed. It is very easy to judge and tighten nuts very lightly before finishing by hand. I’ve used a pneumatic gun for decades and again it is easy to judge light tightening before hand finishing.
Because I normally have all 4 wheels off the caravan or car I use the gun as much as possible, mainly cracking nuts and spinning them off/on.
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Post by inca on Nov 17, 2021 11:03:11 GMT 10
You are quite correct OT. I was looking at impact drivers. Your unit is an impact WRENCH.
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Post by Old Techo on Nov 17, 2021 11:21:52 GMT 10
Ian,
A few months ago I bought an Ozito combo kit including that impact driver (takes hex bits) and a single speed 3/8" chuck drill plus a 4AH battery.
All of that for $79. I couldn't believe the price as the battery alone was $69.
I thought it had to have a 1 missing off the price so ordered online to lock it in. Weeks later the kit was still $79
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Post by collyn on Nov 17, 2021 12:14:33 GMT 10
Never overtighten a screw fastening. Doing so marginally decreases its diameter - thereby increasing thread clearance.
If in doubt use a Loctite product - this fills the gaps - thus precluding the sideways movement that causes unlocking. The best way is to use a second nut (NOT a 'locking washer.
Collyn
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Post by loub on Jan 4, 2022 9:16:44 GMT 10
Hi Stoney, I always ask the tyre mob to hand tighten the last bit with a torque wrench ,my tyre power retailer does it on every car ect.Also if I am going bush I get them to break the beads on all my tyres so there not so hard to get of if we have to put a new case on out in the backblocks.Also i have a set of wheel nut removers that use torque multiple rachet to get those stubborn nuts of. I had these tyre fitted at Tyrepower Seaford SA. I had a conversation with the guys their and they assured me they use the correct torque settings. But what they tell you and what they do when you are not there are two different things. Well you are right there Stoney,whent and brought myself an ozite Brush less Wrench for help with the wheels as starting to need a bit more help.I will test it out on the ute ,couldn't budge a wheel nut,so much for we hand tighten B/S.Had to use a length of pipe and a lump hammer to get it undone. I then tightened it with the new ozito tool and it was a bit tight as well so I know it can over tighten as well,the Ozito wrench works well.Now that Xmas is over I will be taking the ute around and getting them to loosen and tighten the nuts properly like they told me in the first place.Not happy Jan.
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Post by Old Techo on Mar 19, 2024 11:14:36 GMT 10
Somewhere in here I stated that I bought an Ozito cordless rattle gun.
I was pretty happy with it but the biggest test is removing the caravan wheels.
Sometimes it hammers away for 10 seconds before the nut cracks.
The Ozito spec is 215Nm of torque and is enough in most cases as it easily exceeds the torque tightening spec for the van wheel nuts.
The problem is static vs kinetic friction on the nuts, especially when they have been on for a couple of years.
The two forms of friction have been known about forever and I think we covered that in science classes at secondary school.
Searching for some actual data I found this... www.engineeringtoolbox.com/friction-coefficients-d_778.html
What I wanted was the difference in static vs kinetic coefficient. From that table steel-on-steel dry specs are given.
Kinetic is 0.42 but static has a range of 0.5 to 0.8 so let's take the mid-point of 0.65
Compared to the torque used to set the nut correctly the torque needed to break the nut static friction is 0.65/0.42 or 55% higher.
Yesterday at Bunnings I bought a bigger Ozito rattle gun. 400Nm vs my existing 215Nm.
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Post by bazza44 on Mar 19, 2024 11:54:05 GMT 10
I have one of those and it cracks any nut I have tried it on. I have never tightened with it as mine has no variable speed just touch the trigger and let go but that is tricky and could be bad news. It certainly removes them.
Barry
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Post by stoney on Mar 19, 2024 12:02:42 GMT 10
Not sure if mentioned this. I bought one from Amazon. I works really well. Mine came in a kit with a 12v. Scissor jack. They both work better than I expected. It’s not a rattle gun. It is an impact wrench. My Son in law had been trying to loosen some bolts on his garage door. He had tried a breaker bar and a rattle gun. Spent the day on it. I gave my impact wrench a go. It loosened the bolt in two or three strikes. Sid
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Post by Frank and Brenda on Mar 20, 2024 7:13:09 GMT 10
OT, I tried to look back at the links you put in on the first page to see the impact wrench you had but it says page not found Is that the one that takes a hexagonal tool to fit the socket on and your new one a 1/4 inch drive? I haven't used mine, the smaller one, on a wheel yet but I thought it wouldn't take the nuts off or tighten them enough, my thought was to use the wheel nut cross bar to loosen them, use the wrench to remove the nuts and put them back on to finish them of with the cross bar
I have used my 12v electric jack to lift the car a couple on times and it's awesome
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Post by Old Techo on Mar 20, 2024 8:15:48 GMT 10
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