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Post by Old Techo on Jul 29, 2019 11:06:48 GMT 10
....then disconnect all leads from both terminals and check again (make a note of it) leave like that overnight).
BOTH terminals?
Why so Collyn..... are you concerned about battery case leakage paths?
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Post by nsgnomad on Jul 29, 2019 11:12:47 GMT 10
Lance A quick way to check is to measure the voltage about an hour after the vehicle is used (so battery has cooled down) - then disconnect all leads from both terminals and check again (make a note of it) leave like that overnight). If the voltage is still way down - then it is rooted. If not post again and I will explain how to fix the problem. If battery is OK, then there is vehicle issue. Report what you find on here and I will explain how you should be able to track down the cause. Collyn The only problem with doing this might be the radio/stereo might need you to input a code after you reconnect. |
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Lance
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Posts: 233
Location: Melbourne
Tow/Motorhome: VW Crafter Motorhome
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Post by Lance on Jul 29, 2019 11:40:55 GMT 10
Thanks for all the info chaps.
Summary
13.2v Immediately after a drive
!2.8 after 4hrs
12.3 after 16hrs
It's dropping with no known load.
I've ordered the correct size battery for the van and will pickup and fit it later today.
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Post by Old Techo on Jul 29, 2019 12:05:27 GMT 10
Lance,
Did you measure the voltage with a hot engine running at around driving revs?
Just wondering if enough charge.
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Lance
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Posts: 233
Location: Melbourne
Tow/Motorhome: VW Crafter Motorhome
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Post by Lance on Jul 29, 2019 12:23:43 GMT 10
OT, I had that checked about 4weeks ago after I blew a fuse to aux battery and was not getting any charge to it. Charge rate checked out OK then.
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Post by collyn on Jul 29, 2019 14:34:16 GMT 10
....then disconnect all leads from both terminals and check again (make a note of it) leave like that overnight).
BOTH terminals?
Why so Collyn..... are you concerned about battery case leakage paths?
Not so much that nowadays, but because one cannot be certain there is no item that is somehow having its minor draw somehow bypassing main switches etc. I have seen quite a few in the day when I used to attend CMCA Rallies and called on to sort out people's systems. One common example is a directly connected inverter that does not totally close down when all loads are removed. And ditto the odd phantom load such as a remotely controlled TV switch off only at the remote. Collyn |
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Post by dieseltojo on Jul 31, 2019 8:05:23 GMT 10
Lance a new battery might be the way to go alright. My ute was having grumbles starting a couple of months ago. I took it to my favorite battery dealer who did a load test. Said it was cactus. I had no idea the battery was 6 years old. 
Batteries have probs in the winter i know and in the end just give up the ghost. I always fit the largest battery available. Might just be me but a 90 Ah ought to last a bit longer than a 60 Ah.
The sparky guys might have other thoughts on that though. |
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Post by collyn on Aug 1, 2019 10:05:37 GMT 10
A fully charged deep cycle battery should (if no current is drawn( show a show charge of about 12.8 volts after 24-48 hours.
The industry regards a battery as 'worn out' when it can hold only 80% of its initial claimed capacity.
Collyn
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Lance
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Posts: 233
Location: Melbourne
Tow/Motorhome: VW Crafter Motorhome
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Post by Lance on Aug 1, 2019 10:45:46 GMT 10
I replaced the original battery with a Delkor 59015 and all looks good now.
The new battery is showing 12.7 after 48hr fitted and no driving.
I charged the 'old' battery and it shows 12.6 after 48hrs.
I'd have to assume the old battery was simply not big enough for the job.
That battery was new fitted to the van by the seller when I bought it in March this year.
I think I'm happy with the outcome at this stage.
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