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Post by jr on Dec 19, 2020 18:35:28 GMT 10
Hi Barry, very nice work looks much better than using wood and G Clamps. I personally don’t think this needle bearing needs as much attention as the main wheel bearings but if you are doing the main bearings then with your special tool why not. I have attached some photo of the Sharpe Tooling spindle greaser, I can see why it is $60.00 but your system works anyway and it is not $60.00. JR
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Post by bazza44 on Dec 19, 2020 21:35:50 GMT 10
Hi JR, at least with mine the bearing nut does not have to be removed, so easy. Cost $2-20
Barry
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Jack Driver
Seasoned veteran
Posts: 298
Tow/Motorhome: Isuzu Dmax Spacecab MY2015
Caravan: Tailgate slide-on camper MY2020
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Post by Jack Driver on Dec 20, 2020 7:59:37 GMT 10
For what it's worth, I still have concerns with this method. When I greased the needle bearings in the Jackaroo there was evidence of water contamination in the existing grease which could only be removed by washing the bearings.
This method of injecting grease does nothing to ensure that the old grease and contaminants are removed and, as I said previously, pumps far too much grease into the space.
Cheers, JD
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Post by bazza44 on Dec 20, 2020 9:32:11 GMT 10
Morning JD, yes I know what you are saying and I thought long and hard about this, but I think the pluses outweigh the minuses, time will tell.
I spent many hours over 4 weeks gathering info on overseas sites and made the decision to go ahead. Also the type of grease has to be researched. Now that I know grease is in there, I will only regrease when doing wheel bearings.
Have a great Christmas fellas.
Barry
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Post by nsgnomad on Dec 22, 2020 20:41:06 GMT 10
This is an interesting thread, Barry. What grease did you use?
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Post by bazza44 on Dec 23, 2020 11:17:17 GMT 10
Hi Roger, grease was an issue on its own. If you look on one of JR'S posts you will find lithium type 1 is required. Because I use Castrol products I looked through their grease types and found a type 1 grease that is suitable for roller bearings EPL1.
I did an online search for this in a small quantity but could not find it available at auto stores, only large size. Had another look through Castrol greases and decided on EPL2 which is type 2 lithium but still is suitable for roller bearings. As I already have this in my grease gun for general lube of uni. joints etc that was the deciding factor.
Moly grease is not to be used as it is too slippery and rollers can stop rolling and will flat spot. There is more choice in type 2 greases such as Spheerol LMM, Ultratak, etc.
I do not know why type 1 is called for, as I think it would be too light and turn to oil and run out. But then I am not an engineer so what would I know. I will probably know by next wheel bearing re-grease.
Barry
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Post by nsgnomad on Jul 14, 2023 19:31:13 GMT 10
I remembered seeing this thread a while back, but I didn't think it was 2 1/2 years ago. Took me some time to track it down.
Since then, I sold my 2004 100 series, but recently I bought a 2006 model to do some more remote touring. I don't want to tempt fate with my Audi Q7 in remote areas. I enjoy the comfort and power of the Q7 for towing, but the lack of support for an Audi outback worries me a little.
Anyway, I need to replace the brakes,rotors and all on the LC100, so while I was at it I wanted to regrease the spindle bearings. I will make up the tool as Bazz has done, but wondered whether to do it before or after removing the hub/rotor. The rotor is quite pitted so looks like had done a fair bit of water crossings and I am wondering if the existing grease in the spindle bearing is water contaminated. I have noted the grease type mentioned by Bazz.
What do you think?
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Post by bazza44 on Jul 16, 2023 11:18:44 GMT 10
Roger all I can say is that I have had no issues with what I did. No grease running out anywhere. The decision will be yours.
Barry
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Post by nsgnomad on Jul 16, 2023 19:36:29 GMT 10
Thanks Barry. I have made up a clamp similar to yours, but am yet to fix the grease nipple into the 25mm PVC cap. I haven't removed the grease cap or flange so I cannot see how far into the PVC cap the splineshaft will extend.
Was there an issue with the base of the grease nipple clearing the end of the shaft?
I am wondering if I will need to trim the end of the grease nipple to stop it getting in the way. I am thinking of screwing it in the end, rather than the side as you have done. Trying to be as prepared as I can before tackling the job. Cheers.
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Post by bazza44 on Jul 16, 2023 21:47:45 GMT 10
Roger do not screw the grease nipple into the end if using a plastic cap like I did. It will press on the axle and leave no gap for grease to come out and probably break out with the pressure on it.
On the inside of the cap I placed a nut as a spacer to press the axle back enough to see grease coming out at the rear of the hub at the gap created there. I will have a look at the size of nut I used as a spacer tomorrow. Does not have to be a nut, just something to press the axle back a bit. The clamp over the cap takes the pressure from this and stops cap from breaking.
Barry
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Post by bazza44 on Jul 17, 2023 13:02:38 GMT 10
Ok Roger I will clarify what I said previous. You probably do not have to hold the axle back, in the video on page one it is not held back. I did it to make it easier to push grease in there and to see on the back when it came through. It also cleared the grease nipple.
The cap is from Bunnings, it is a Holman 25mm cap that is 33mm dia. inside, the spacer I used to push back the axle is 12mm in height.
Hope this helps.
Barry
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Post by nsgnomad on Jul 24, 2023 20:31:09 GMT 10
I finally got the job done. My first attempt at making the greasing tool similar to Bazz's was not a success. Despite making a 'top hat' clamp to hold it, grease still oozed out of the base so it wasn't making a good seal. I didn't take a photo while in use but did reassemble it for a photo shot. (Ignore the glad wrap showing). I was going to try to grease the needle rollers before disassembling the hub, just to prove the effectiveness of the tool. See first photo. For my second attempt, I took inspiration from the 'Sharpe Tooling spindle greaser' as shown by JR at the top of page 2. I liked the idea that it was held by the thread on the axle hub but making such a tool at home out of metal would be impossible with my limited workshop facilities. Plastic is so much easier, and I had to disassemble the hub anyway to replace the brake rotors so access to the thread on the axle hub was easy. What doesn't show in the first photo is there is a short extension at the end of the white sleeve, made from 40mm drain PVC. It mated up to the end of the axle hub. However, by heating some 40mm pipe with a hot air gun, I was able to expand it a little and fit it over the threaded section of the hub and as it cooled, formed thread inside the pipe. I used that as a longer extension of the version 1 tool. The only other obstacle to overcome was the slot in the thread on the axle hub that stopped the bearing washers from rotating. A suitably sized piece of wood fitted into the slot and the bearing retaining nut cut thread into the wood and would keep it in place. (See photo 2) I was surprised by how much grease I had to pump into it before it showed on the inside of the hub, but the important thing was.. IT WORKED. Thanks Bazz, JR and others for your advice/input.
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